Spanish pronounciation defies me. "V" is pronounced like a soft "B", and double "L" more like a "Y". So it's actually more like "Bayadoli" .
However you say it, it's a very pretty place. This was the courtyard restaurant of our hotel:
Just across the road from our hotel was the central plaza, with the Catedral de San Gervasio, which was beautifully illuminated at night:
The park was delightful, with lots of pretty white wrought-iron benches, each bearing the city crest.
Rather grand wrought iron gates at the park entrance:
After visiting Chichen Itza the previous day, we thought it might be nice to try and have a cooling dip in some of the cenotes (limestone sinkholes) near Valladolid. We decided on Dzitnup and Samula, and found the carpark, but the car was immediately surrounded by children wanting to sell us stuff. Moreover, the cenotes were due to close within the next 15 minutes, so we thought we'd check them out the following morning.
Accordingly, we returned bright and early. The cenotes are run by a village cooperative, who charge a minimal fee (~$5 Australian) for access to both.
The joy of arriving early was that the underage hawkers were nowhere to be seen, and the stall vendors were yet to set up for the day. We had the place almost to ourselves.
We descended stone stairs, past a cave, to Dzitnup. We weren't quite sure what to expect. Lonely Planet had warned of some other cenotes being algae-infested, with dust on the surface of the water, but had rated Dzitnup and Samula as more enticing and highly swimmable. It described an artifically lit pool with numerous huge stalactites.
This is the sight that greeted us as we entered the underground cavern:
The water was so crystal clear, you could see the catfish swimming around. They're the small black shapes in the foreground of the picture:
I lost no time in getting amongst the action. A lovely middle aged Mexican lady helped me over the slippery rocks (I was okay, but she was offerring), and I slid into the heavenly cool, clear water.
The cenote was so beautiful I didn't want to disturb anything. The locals happily laugh and splash, but I swam around almost reverently, exploring the sinkhole. At first, I thought the ropes were partitions, but then I realised they're only there for the benefit of those who can't swim.
On our way back out, we were bailed up by the gardener, who offerred us an informal tour (= big tip). Resignedly we agreed, and it at least afforded us access to some additional caves that gave extra lovely views of the cenote:
Next, it was across the road, past the sports field and through a mosquito-ridden scrubby path (hurrah for bug spray!) to reach Samula.
This is a large, cavern pool with alamo tree roots stretching down from the middle of the ceiling to drink from it.
I was already dry and warm again after our short walk, and it was bliss to hop in to the water. Sean was happy to be photographer.
The catfish were very placid and so easily seen in the clear water:
You can't ask for more than a refreshing swim in a shaded cenote with the catfish!
We headed back into town - luckily, the hotels in Mexico all seem to have late check-out times. Here's our hotel courtyard, and the cathedral and the park, by day.
There are some excellent artisans markets in Valladolid, where the vendors aren't pushy or aggressive. We found a great place on the plaza square and did a spot of souvenir shopping.
With that, it was time to press on to Merida. But first I had to say goodbye to Magaly, the receptionist at Hotel El Meson del Marques. Magaly was so helpful about the cenotes after I got a bit freaked out by the zealous child hawkers. And I loved the cactus wood front desk.
Valladolid was a lovely, friendly and classy town. I highly recommend it for any Yucatan-bound travellers.
t's a very pretty place!
ReplyDeleteespecially park with lots of pretty white wrought-iron benches.
I like wrought-iron products. You can see more the my colections of wrought-iron at: cau thang sat dac