Sunday 5 June 2011

Nat REALLY Goes Surfing!

Oh my gosh, I'm so excited to show you these photos!


So yes, after a rather unglamourous second lesson, things took a turn for the better. It was like all the hard work from those less-than-ideal conditions paid off. The weather also got much better, and we had 3 days of gorgeous sunny, still mornings.

And hey, it's always good to show you the tough, unpretty stuff first, because it makes what follows look so much cooler.


Anyway, by the end of my fourth lesson, I was getting into the waves entirely by myself and I had my timing down pat.

And we saw a baby seal!


The piece de resistance was when I caught a beautiful wave and, I kid you not, RODE IT ALL THE WAY IN TO THE BEACH.


Yes, you read correctly. I. Caught. And. Rode. A. Wave. All. The. Way. In. To. The. Beach.


When I realised I wasn't going to fall off, I even managed to turn the board and steer to get the most out of the wave.


And then, on top of Annie's shrieks of excitement and encouragement, a bunch of cheering and applause broke out from the top of the cliffs.


So, I waved to acknowledge their applause, as I was crusing along. At which point the cheering got louder.


When I finally stepped off the board on the beach (that's right, I stepped off), I took a modest little bow, which the guys on the cliffs found hilarious. When we climbed back up after our surf, they were all congratulating me (learner surfers stand out a mile!)


Their encouragement was so awesome. Santa Cruz is that kind of place.


Annie was so stoked that I had enough control to wave to the cheering masses while I was standing up. She was laughing about it all the way home.


I was so stoked, I spent the rest of the day sporting a maniacal Cheshire-cat grin, and feeling like it was Christmas morning. Every time I closed my eyes, I was on that wave again.


One begins to understand the addictive lure of surfing.


And where was Sean, Master Documentary Photographer, during this, my moment of monumental triumph and glory?!


He was at home, sleeping off his jet lag.


Great.


Anyway, moving on to my fifth and final lesson. I dragged the long-suffering Sean out of bed and shoved the telephoto lens into his zombie-extended hands. After my amazing ride to the beach, I was feeling a bit of performance pressure. But the show, oops, I mean lesson, must go on.......

Putting on a semi-wet wetsuit is never fun, but I'm kitted up and ready to go.

 


After the second lesson, I ditched my ridiculous dive booties. They have soles like hi-tops. Great for diving. Not so good for standing up on surfboard.

I couldn't feel my feet after each lesson (and I totally wrecked my pedicure) but at least I could pop up.

Venturing in:



Looking far more confident with the paddling. Check out my nice feet!


Push up over that wave!



Okay, this is it!! First wave of the day! I wish I could put these pictures together in a flip book for you, because they make an AWESOME animation. Check out my style!!






Yep, that's really me!

Second wave:





Check out the HUGE grin on my face!



WHOO HOO!!!!! I am SO loving it!!!!!!


We had to wait a little while between sets. This certainly is not unpleasant:


Next wave!!






Whaddya think of my style?!?!

And what a difference 3 more lessons makes!

I sent one of these pics to my surfie friends. My favourite reply was Jim's:

"I'm loving the big wave pressure-drop stance! It looks perfect for honing your skills on :) "

Yes, well, I did think I was standing a little straighter! There should be a 10-foot wave behind me, given my posture, but meh, details. And as Jim said, bent knees are all good (I reckons it's a skating thing).

And just to show you that I did catch all the waves entirely by myself, here is one of my final waves of the day:







YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome New Surf Skills: I Haz Dem.


One happy, happy grommet in the white water after my final wave:


The end of my 5 lessons. Thank you SO much, Annie! You were totally awesome, dude!!!!!!!!

And thanks, lovely husband Sean, for the pics. You made up for your absence on Day 4 :-)


Swweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeettt!!!!!

Now to break out the 4mm and the foamie board on the Tassie waves!
 

No comments:

Post a Comment